spindle moulder question?

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leverb01507

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Hi guys just looking for some advice on my spindle moulder. It is the kind which uses a drilled and tapped hole down the centre of the arbour to secure the cutter block with a m12 hex key head bolt. It has on the top of the arbour two locating pins which slot in to a large nut so that you can use a big ring spanner to stop the block turning whilst you do up the bolt. I want to remove these pins so that I can use a countersunk bolt with my whitehill combined scribe and rebate head and allow tenons to shoot over the top of the block when scribing shoulders. I can still lock the arbour with the spindle lock under the table but before I cut them off and file them down I just though I would check I haven't missed something obvious. I hope the description makes some kind of sense.
Thanks.
 
Does your spindle have a brake if so those pins are to stop the weight of the block unscrewing the top bolt when you turn the machine off, don't cut them.
 
Yeah its compliant with current regs. Shall have to try to drill the retaining countersunk washer in the block to accept the pins in that case, don't want flying rebate blocks shooting across the room.
Thanks chrispy, knew there would something I was missing.
 
Not sure which spindle moulder you have, but a number have the ability to replace the arbour with one that is designed to allow tennon in operations. Have a look in the manual, or if it's an old one that you don't have the manual for have a look on Daltons at their old manual section. Stubby arbours come up periodically on eBay for various machines
 
Thanks deema, I think the arbor on my machine is suitable anyway, albeit minus the issue of the locating pins which will need to be recessed in to my countersunk washer. As a side note how does a stub arbor on most machines get around the breaking issue without unwinding? Is there a keyway or similar? Most flush mounted blocks I've seen don't have provision for any pinning?
Thanks guys.
 
A stub arbour is normally is designed to rotate in just one direction, you are normally cutting end grain so the opportunity to reverse the direction has little benefit. The arbour normally has just a simple nut which self tightens as you start / stop the machine. Like all such arrangements, the nut needs tweaking up to begin with.
 

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