New Fangled Workbench

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What a great idea - one of those why didn't I think of that. Thanks for the link

Cheers :D
Tony
 
houtslager, so after a number of years using it, what's the feedback? Are there things you would change or improve? What are the particularly useful features of it for you, would you recommend one over a traditional bench?
 
well I made my mods at the time of building, instead of the support frames being joined together inthe middle by 1 wide timber, I used 3 frames and notched out for 2 x 2 's I places 2 in the front and 2 at the rear.

In use, it has been very versatile, and the only problem I have had, is the pipe clamps sliding on the pipe :evil: I think this is due to the "gas barrel " being a touch smaller than its American cousin.

The othe item I would change is the plane beam - I like the newer version, so I might , no let me correct myself - I will be modifying the beam in the near future.
I'll post some pics when I can get to the bench, as the bench room is full at the mo' :oops:

All the best HS, resting my back now with a cuppa and a glass of whisky in hand whilst watching T,T,S, Spy :)

am off ttfn.
 
Thanks Byron,

I must say this is full of ideas! A certain book needs some updating methinks.

Houtslager, we definitely need a lot of photos please!

:wink: :wink:

looks interesting.
 
This is mainly for Gill and BB
the bits for the bench, less the top
pipebench.jpg

Shelving for said " new fangled bench"
pipebench1.jpg

3 Frames standing
pipebench2.jpg

Back 3 x 2 screwed in
pipebench2-1.jpg

Front 3 x 2 going in
pipebench4.jpg

Bottom shelving going in
pipebench5.jpg

The TOP - underneath view
pipebench7.jpg

Top, and the shelves in
pipebench8.jpg

Planing Beam in
pipebench9.jpg

Pipe clamps in the top
pipebench10.jpg

Full range of clamps
pipebench13.jpg


Well there you go folks, overal size is 3m long, 1.1m deep and 1m high.

Pipe clamps are the 3/4" gas barrel , big problem especially for the planing beam is the clamps sometimes slip. This I believe is due to the pipe being a touch smaller in Diameter then the American version.

I think I will be modding the planning bean to the newer version as per the earlier weblink.

I hope this photo montage shows how I made it and how quickley it takes to put together.

In fact posting this post - took far longer to do, then to take the bench apart , move it and re assemble it :? :twisted:
 
Thats a great set of photo's - really makes me think I should consider something like it..

I wonder if I can incorporate some of the idea's into an MFT..

Thanks for posting!
 
Many, many thanks for such a comprehensive set of photographs. I'm desperate for a decent workbench and an imitation of this one will suit me down to the ground, although mine will be somewhat smaller.

Gill
 
ByronBlack":15bt6qfl said:
Thats a great set of photo's - really makes me think I should consider something like it..

I wonder if I can incorporate some of the idea's into an MFT..

Thanks for posting!

Thinking along the same lines with my MFT - insert area in the centre of the table for router table, sacrificial pad, insert bases for small drill press, metal vice etc. Ideally need a efficient way of fixing the insert in without protruding over the top surface or needed surface mounted clamps. Initial thought is to rout a lip half the depth of the table top so that a lipped plate with 4 pegs could be used.
 
I recently came across the article for this one on the web and was very taken with it. So I did a search here to see if anyone had made one and discovered this thread! Wow! I don't know how I missed this one the first time around. Thanks so much for posting the video-link Byron, and Houtslager too for the photos. I particularly like your mod to add a full width shelf under the bench.

A couple of questions if I may.

The article says the bench was made of Douglas Fir. Given that this is my first workbench - up until now I have worked off a black and Decker Workmate - there are likely to be mods until I end up with what I want so I don't want the expense of beech at this stage. I'm tempted to make the legs and frame from pine, using traditional m/t joints, but not sure of what best to use for the top. Any thoughts?

I see that Axminster sell the Jorgenson Pony pipe clamps and the 3/4" pipe as well. The Axminster version of the pipeclamps are less than 1/2 the price of the Pony's - any one any experience of these? Are they any good?

Also I see that the max length of pipe that they do is 1000mm and I'm planning a 6ft bench. Does anyone have an alternative source for longer lengths of compatible pipe?

Any comments gratefully received. I feel a project is now imminent!
 
Hi Roger,

As you would want to make sure the top remains flat, but sections of it need to be removable, I'd be inclined to go with man-made boards (and probably lip the various sections with solid wood). MDF would do and would be cheap. Just keep it well waxed. I'd glue together three layers of 18mm. And if it doesn't work out it won't have cost you much - but it will probably be OK :D

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I would agree with Paul. I think for this design, it would be quite difficult and labour intensive to make it out of solid wood. My last workbench was a sandwhich of old canteen table laminated chipboard, topped with 12mm ply. It was quite strong and was easy to repair and modify. My current workbench build out of beech is causing me a lot of problems - its quite difficult (for me anyway) to work with.
 
Thanks guys. It looks like Houtslager has used MDF for his. Your point regards the labour intensive nature of using beech is well made Byron. If it's labour intensive it won't happen!
 
superb idea, and very versatile, and I agree the top definately needs to be manmade boards....Hmmmm looks like my plans for a workbench just got superceeded ....
 
What a fantastic idea for a bench, very practical and relatively simple to build, thanks for the post Byron.

Like Roger, I too have made do with an old B&D workmate so far and have been thinking of building my own bench for a while. I can definately get some great ideas from this post

regards

Brian
 
Thanks guys. It looks like Houtslager has used MDF for his. Your point regards the labour intensive nature of using beech is well made Byron. If it's labour intensive it won't happen!

NOPE! 40MMM PLY for the top and 100*200 oregon pine for the stands, 50*50 pine for the 4 cross braces.The top, has a 5mm distempered hardboard sacrificial surface, which after 7/8 years HARD use still does NOT need renewing :p

hs
 
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