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  1. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    Hw about "Mimsers"?
  2. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    "Would you let a random stranger meddle with your kids bike?" At our Repair Cafe, and at the other ones I help out at, there is a steady stream of parents doing just exactly that. Bike repairs - after textiles & sewing, sharpening, and small electricals - is the most popular repair activity...
  3. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    Oh dear . . . . You can lead a horse to water; but you can't make it THINK.
  4. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    "Im all for voluntary work, but, this has to be done properly following all the H&S rules that any business working in that sector must follow." ??? This from HSE: "When health and safety law does not apply In most cases, health and safety law does not apply where volunteering does not...
  5. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    "If you fix it, you are personally liable for your errors as well as the organisation that organised for you to do it." ?? YOU WISH. This is complete nonsense.
  6. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    Not so. Many of the electricals repairers are ex-electricians, now retired, but doing it as hobby. I repair electrics. I've never been a trade electrician; but I have degrees in mechanical and electrical engineering and design. And I've found that most trade electricians spend their time on...
  7. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    Just perhaps "devaluing the skills" is what Repair Cafés are FOR? I have helped out at many [437, so far] RCs. I've slowly come to realise that repairing the customer's item is NOT the output. If the objective is to save CO2 emissions by inculcating a "make and mend" mindset, rather the...
  8. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    It sounds like the one you're looking at is ideal: a bit disorganised and chaotic. Because repairing IS chaotic: • You don't know which customers will turn up, with what – and when: it can start with a rush, then tail off; or there can be a complete blank for the first half-hour •...
  9. spanner48

    Help please - blind needed?

    Too late now; but you might have specified Pilkington's "K" glass, which allows light, but reduces heat transmission
  10. spanner48

    Helping at a repair cafe

    Two choices; either: 1: Do as Blister advises: take nothing, treat it as a reconnaisance trip, or: 2: Decide beforehand what you're going to offer [sharpening, bikes, textiles and sewing, electrics, electronics, woodwork & furniture, china/glass/porcelain, clocks, leatherwork, bookbinding...
  11. spanner48

    Evri. New Flat pack delivery.

    The pieces shown seem to have separated very neatly, and with no damage to the joints. It is possible that the table was on its last legs, with the glue having failed, and it fell apart sometime during the journey . . . . In that case, who would be to blame?
  12. spanner48

    Anti slip finish for decking

    What is wrong with builders' Sharp Sand sprinkled onto new, wet wood finish? Then brushed off, once dry and set?
  13. spanner48

    Stolen tools news article

    Don't be silly
  14. spanner48

    Most suitable glue

    +1 for that. How about masking off the joint faces, then a light dusting with Silicone Release Spray before gluing-up?
  15. spanner48

    Chisel Buying Advice

    Well, this is mostly guesswork. But I would reckon the steel composition is better and more consistent nowadays. In the US, they did a 'longditudinal' analysis of Disston [then the world's leading sawsmiths] saw steels. The manufacturing dates spread from 1865 [for the backsaw] to 1955 [for...
  16. spanner48

    Tenon Saw Problem

    These are domed-nut sawscrews. [Nominally-] plated steel, so they tend to rust together. I would suggest: 1: Using a full-size hacksaw, cut a straight slot across the domed head of the screw. The deeper the better. 2: Use Plus-Gas or Bulldog BDX applied to both screw and nut ends [ or...
  17. spanner48

    Chisel Buying Advice

    Oh dear . . . .
  18. spanner48

    Chisel Buying Advice

    I restore historically-interesting saws [both hand- and backsaws] from the 18th and 19th centuries. Almost all come to me with various forms of oxidation on the blade. By far the best/kindest way to remove this is careful surface 'planing' with a VERY sharp chisel – ty[ically 3/4" or 1". Of...
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