Recent content by recipio

An angle grinder would have that off in a few seconds. Incidentally you can get security screws which only tighten clockwise. They cannot be undone with a screwdriver.

Don't forget the back of the blade is rising and while not actually cutting it can pinch the sides of the cut and kick it up .Most kickbacks are however caused by short pieces twisting in the cut allowing the back of the blade to grab it. I have an American saw with accessories and it is the...

I'm 30 years using a tablesaw and no injuries so far. A few danger points are : 1 Cutting thick boards over 2" especially Iroko. The twisted grain can pinch the blade and kickback. You will feel resistance and possibly see burning. Stop immediately and take shallow cuts instead.. 2 . Cutting...

My thoughts are : 1 Brand loyalty is never a good idea. The Chinese make mediocre power tools that are rebranded to look like western tools. They will all eventually fail.. 2 We buy with our eyes not our head. If you have a problem doing something then mull over it for a week or two. A solution...

Lee Valley in Canada sell a twin router bit set that routs a crescent shaped edge on the door and a convex shaped edge on solid wood to match. The join is completely invisible but still solid wood. Worth the investment assuming you have a router table.

I recently invested in a Jessem table saw miter fence. Apart from being accurate it will clamp the wood and cut to a stop up to 46". A stop is essential in my view - it stops the wood sliding laterally as well.

Ideally a quality miter fence on the table saw set to 45 degrees. Check that the blade is perfectly at 90 to the table with a digital inclinometer and the wood should be clamped down. Failing that either option on the miter saw will work but again the wood should be clamped down.

A 2B pencil. Harder pencil marks can be a bu##er to remove.

Be sure to get one with a cartridge top. The older bags blow a lot of dust through them.

I had a look around and the Maple / Taiwanese cutters seem to have disappeared. They were commonplace last time I looked. www.fine-tools.com will sell you some very expensive cutters - beautifully made German tools. For the OP the trick with threadcutting is precision. Drill the recommended...

I've got a set going from 1/2 " up to 1 1/4 " . Can't remember where I bought them but they are surprisingly useful. They are all maple and seem to come out of the same factory in Taiwan. I use the 1" to attach a pedestal leg to Shaker candle stands and they are rock solid. It's worth investing...

Getting professional results is difficult without the correct tools. A picture framer will typically use a miter cutter and underpinning machine to join perfect miters together. As an amateur I think should achieve good results with a small table saw using a jig for the miters. It would also...

Use cranked self closing hinges. They screw into the face of the door and faceframe. Cheap and available in a lot of finishes.

Cheers. You have probably checked out Wealden who do a full bullnose up to 32mm ( 16 mm radius ) Remember that you can get ' shallow ' bullnose bits mainly made in China. They rout part of a circle and look absolutely fine. I ordered a few and have no problems with them.

A dedicated bullnose bit will do a far better job. You will have to decide on the finished thread thickness and whether it's worth buying a bit for a one off job. For a 33 mm thickness thread you will need a 16.5 mm radius bit or slightly over - 17 mm would be ideal. Take the cut with a few...