Recent content by hlvd

Old school would be chisel to chop down to the line like you would for a butt hinge, then rebate or shoulder plane to clean it up and split the line. Corners and the bottom 4” are difficult and need to be done mostly with a chisel and bullnose. A router might work if you’ve enough width to tack...

I’d recommend just using it as a crosscut saw as ripping with a radial arm isn’t advised.

I’ve used this method to square up the radial arm saw at work with a 20” ish square piece of MDF. Surprisingly effective.

Your cuts are too deep.

It’s the pinching that causes that as well.

You don’t own a Table Saw yet here you are lecturing experienced users about operating Table Saws 🤷‍♂️

That sounds like an excellent idea!

I purchased some once but sent them back as I could set the blades more accurately with the traditional two line method.

It was always a Mortise Gauge for marking mortises, and always marked from the Face Side. This was to guarantee flush joints due to the possibility of uneven thickness hand prepared stock. Not so much of a problem with machined stock but still nice to keep up traditions.

Show us his hinge and latch recesses, and the shadow gap, this’ll tell us if he’s a carpenter or not.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285540893028?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tt4gwySBSd-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Lqa69ktjRIa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m beginning to think you have shares in this jig.

I think you’re missing the point here Elisha, you’re dismissing the opinions of people who have many years experience of doing this for a living. I explained in my previous post your jig is perhaps flawed, and even suggested an alternative that might be a better idea.

Nice chisels!

Notice I said unthreaded, as in bolt and nut…